Newsgroups: comp.sys.apple2 Path: news.weeg.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!hobbes.physics.uiowa.edu!newsfeed.ksu.ksu.edu!moe.ksu.ksu.edu!vixen.cso.uiuc.edu!howland.reston.ans.net!agate!darkstar.UCSC.EDU!news.hal.COM!olivea!decwrl!pa.dec.com!acme.freenet.columbus.oh.us!dalloff From: dalloff@freenet.columbus.oh.us (Dave Althoff) Subject: Dave's Guide to ][e Keyboard Repair Message-ID: Date: Mon, 6 Jun 1994 23:13:40 -0400 (EDT) X-Received: by usenet.pa.dec.com; id AA03764; Mon, 6 Jun 94 20:35:30 -0700 X-Received: by pobox1.pa.dec.com; id AA03304; Mon, 6 Jun 94 20:35:27 -0700 X-Received: from acme.freenet.columbus.oh.us by inet-gw-3.pa.dec.com (5.65/27May94) id AA16069; Mon, 6 Jun 94 20:31:52 -0700 X-Received: by acme.freenet.columbus.oh.us (8.6.7/5.901231) id XAA17652; Mon, 6 Jun 1994 23:30:22 -0400 X-To: hbcsc003@huey.csun.edu X-Cc: comp.sys.apple2.usenet@decwrl.dec.com X-Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII Lines: 47 Most Apple ][e's use all-mechanical Alps keyswitches in the keyboards. Some use a short-stem switch, some use a short-stem switch with an extender, and some use a long-stem switch. In most cases, the switches are not repairable. Fortunately, replacement is fairly easy. 1. Remove the screws from the bottom of the ][e case, and remove the top half of the case. 2. Scribe the position of the keyboard on the keyboard support brackets, to facilitate reinstallation. 3. Remove the keycaps of the blown key and the surrounding keys. 4. Remove the four keyboard mounting screws, and unplug the ribbon connector from the keyboard. At this point, I generally find it convenient to mount the keyboard PCB-side-up on the mounting brackets. 5. Locate the two solder pads under the blown key. Heat these pads and, using a vacuum bulb, remove all of the solder from the pins. Grasp the exposed pins with a small plier and wiggle a bit to make sure they are free of the board. 6. To remove the keyswitch, you must fully depress the tabs on either side of the key stem, and lift the entire switch upward. This is the tricky part. 7. To install the new keyswitch, simply press the switch into the hole in the keyboard until it snaps into position. Carefully solder the pins to the pads on the PC board, then reinstall the keyboard in the reverse of removal. 8. When reinstalling the keyboard, line the edges up with the scribe marks on the brackets. If you get it malpositioned, you may find that certain keys (most notably the "`") will stick by jamming against the system cover. If you need more information, I am... --Dave Althoff, Jr. (dalloff@freenet.columbus.oh.us) (long-time Apple ][ user) Newsgroups: comp.sys.apple2 Path: news.weeg.uiowa.edu!news.uiowa.edu!uunet!newsflash.concordia.ca!vax2.concordia.ca!spector From: spector@vax2.concordia.ca (Mitchell Spector) Subject: Re: Keyboard repair Message-ID: <7JUN199411052817@vax2.concordia.ca> Summary: 3 key doesn't work; help! News-Software: VAX/VMS VNEWS 1.41 Sender: usenet@newsflash.concordia.ca (USENET News System) Nntp-Posting-Host: vax2.concordia.ca Organization: Concordia University References: <2st9n7$9nc@nic-nac.CSU.net> Date: Tue, 7 Jun 1994 16:05:00 GMT Lines: 35 In article hbcsc003@huey.csun.edu (will irace) writes... > >I've just picked up a //e enhanced, and it's great except for the fact >that the "3" key is stone cold dead. ("Aaigh! no PR#6!") I've taken it >apart only to find that the keyboard is apparently RIVETED together! Is >there no way for me to repair this? How about some sort of workaround >(i.e., figuring out which pins I should short together to get a "3" out)? I had a simular problem happen to me recently. Some months ago, my friend found an Apple //e in the trash and gave it to me the night of Oct.31st last year (hey, talk about your "enchanted" //e! ;-), but the keyboard was damaged and it was missing a screen. I soon discovered it would be much cheaper to just buy another second-hand //e, than pay for a replacement keyboard and monitor. So, a few weeks ago that's just what I did! When I brought it home it was fairly dirty, so I took it apart and cleaned everything including the brand-new _working_ keyboard. Unfortunately, once I put everything back together, I found many of the keys were acting totally dead. Well, I was on verge of giving up until I tried this.... Remove the plastic-keycap on your "3" key. Do you see little plastic tabs on either side on the the keyswitch? Poke something in between these tabs (ie - toothpick, long metal-pin) and very gently pry them away from the keyswitch. If that doesn't work, push them in closer. Try depressing the keyswitch (without keycap back on yet) until you get a response on screen from the "3" key again. You might have to play around until it's fully functioning again. In my case, I think there was a contact-pad or something simular that wasn't making a connection. While this solution may not sound so orthodox, it may just save you from having to do any messy soldering. >Will Irace >wirace@csun.edu Mitchell Spector sb_spec@pavo.concordia.ca / spector@vax2.concordia.ca